Every year, on the last Sunday of July, people from around the world gather to celebrate Reek Sunday. When weather permits, as many as 25,000 people gather near Clew Bay in County Mayo, on the west coast of Ireland, to make the famous pilgrimage up Croagh Patrick, or St Patrick’s Stack, known locally as The Reek.
This tradition dates back nearly 5000 years, all the way to the Stone Age. It wasn’t until 1500 years ago that it became associated with Catholicism. Before then, like many things in Ireland, its roots were pagan. It is here that people claim Gaelic Ireland honored the Celtic sun god Lu. Now, it’s a place many come to as a devotion to their faith.
The more Catholic legends hold two stories in accordance to the mountain’s connection to St Patrick. According to the Book of Armagh, Patrick made the journey to the top to convert either a Celtic god or king that lived there in 441 AD. While doing so, he had to defeat the king’s mother, who was said to be a demon. He cast her into a lake—said to be Lough Derg—where she was ultimately defeated by him. More accepted legend holds that Patrick went up with some of his followers and spent 40 days on the mountain, praying and fasting. At the end, he threw a silver bell down the mountain banishing all the snakes from Ireland.
Regardless of your beliefs, there are many reasons people make the climb. Some are historians or anthropologists looking to immerse themselves in this ancient tradition, some are lovers of nature looking to honor the earth, and others are the devout Catholics that make the journey for their faith. For Catholics, the celebration of Reek Sunday begins the Friday before with Garland Friday, a tradition where a mass is held in the parking lot at the bottom of the mountain at 7pm. This is a great way to be part of the celebration if you are unable to make the climb. If you do decide to summit, here’s what you need to know.
At the bottom of the mountain near the car park is an information center. Here you can purchase a walking stick and ask any questions before your journey begins. (I’d bring one if I were you!) While the path is carved out for you, remember this walk is anything but easy; the ground is made almost entirely of rocks. The beginning of the climb is steep, while the end is notoriously hard for the harsh angle. Make sure you bring enough water and snacks to satiate yourself to the top!
There are three pilgrimage stations along the way: Leacht Benáin, The Summit, and lastly Roilig Mhuire. At each you will see a list of prayer options. At the top, you have two: walk around 15 times while reciting 7 Our Fathers, 15 Hail Marys and one Creed, or go around the top on your bare knees. One of the biggest themes of this pilgrimage is confession and penance. It’s one of the reasons people make the journey barefoot! This is a way to make a sacrifice for God. People consent to temporary pain as an embodiment and acknowledgment of Christ’s death on the cross. You can even do the Sacrament of Reconciliation on the summit from 7:30 am to 2 pm!
During the months of July and August, the church at the top is open daily from 10 am to 3 pm. Reek Sunday mass is held every hour, on the hour, from 8 am to 2 pm. So start early! Many pilgrims and climbers will start their journey before sunlight; it takes about two and a quarter hours to reach the top!
The pilgrimage is coined as a voyage of self discovery, a place to test your limits, and is open to anyone that can make the journey. No matter your reason for the climb, people never deny the spiritual element of the walk. So immerse yourself in history or in your faith this Sunday, and listen closely, as it is said that if you have any Celtic blood in you, Croagh Patrick will speak back to you.
